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Developer: Sony Price: $600 (list); $450 (street) Requirements: Mac OS 8.6 or Mac OS X, USB Recommended: Mac OS 9 or later. The manual offers specific compatibility advice. Trial: None. Since I have had the use of my own digital camera for approximately two months now, and I have thought long and hard about an answer to the question, I face writing a review on it without knowing exactly who to recommend this camera to. This is because when you first pick up Sony’s flagship compact digital camera for 2003, the CyberShot DSC-P10, and start to play around with it, you will find it incredibly hard to put down. The first thing about this camera that makes an impression is its size. Measuring just 4.25" in length and just over 2" in height, the P10 is smaller than Sony’s previous efforts—no mean feat given the boost in specification compared to larger siblings such as the DSC-P72. Any pre-conceptions that the P10’s size makes it vulnerable to damage vanish once it is picked up; although it weighs a mere seven and a half ounces, the camera feels reasonably solid and durable, enough to withstand the odd accidental knock, not that you would ever forgive yourself if you dropped it. Looking around the camera’s enclosure, a few features immediately catch the eye. The core lens sports a 3x optical zoom and an additional 4x digital zoom function, and automatically adds about an inch to the camera’s depth when it is switched on. A standard tripod mount is offered on the bottom of the camera, and the side features an easy-open panel for access to the rechargeable InfoLithium® battery and media slot. The back features a 1.5" full-color LCD screen, most of the camera control buttons, and the necessary I/O ports, while the top of the camera is reserved for the shutter release and power buttons. ModesOnce switched on, the P10 will always be in one of six modes, each represented and accessed by a dial surrounding the shutter release button. Three of these are used for picture taking, the one feature that one expects every camera to support out of the box. Most pictures will only require the auto-adjustment mode, in which the focus, exposure, and white balance values are automatically adjusted to suit the environment. Those who prefer having complete control over their camera’s settings will appreciate the programmed mode, in which all options are configured through an extremely easy-to-use menu system. A scene selection mode is also available, for pictures which fit one of six predefined profiles. ResolutionIn any of the three picture-taking modes, the P10 lets you choose the desired image resolution of your next photo from a choice of five, ranging from VGA (640x480) to an astonishing 5.0 effective megapixels, which I am reliably informed equates to 2592x1944 pixels. The additional capture modes when taking still images make this camera all the more desirable: the camera can take three pictures in rapid succession (optionally with the exposure value slightly shifted in each image), can record an attached audio file of up to 40 seconds, or it can simultaneously store a lower resolution (320x240) “thumbnail” of the normal-sized image for e-mail purposes. After taking your picture you have the option of instantly reviewing the shot without switching to playback mode, and quickly deciding whether you want to keep or delete what you just shot. ViewscreenAdditional features worthy of mention at this point are those offered by the viewscreen. The built-in viewscreen offers four display modes, from displaying basic information on top of the current image, to full information, to full information plus a live histogram. Personally, I cannot see the appeal of a live histogram graphic other than to perhaps judge brightness balance, but a few people might find this more useful than I would. The viewscreen is fine for judging the position of the camera when taking a picture, but there may be times when the sun is too bright to see what’s on the viewscreen, or it otherwise detracts from picture-taking. In these situations, not only does the camera’s standard viewfinder come in handy, but the viewscreen can also be turned off to save battery power and keep distractions to a minimum. QualityPicture quality, as you would expect, is excellent. The camera’s support for taking macro shots of fauna especially gives highly impressive results, with a great attention to detail and accurate color reproduction. The one limitation the camera does suffer from here is the forced JPEG image mode; while images are generally captured at the finest quality, the lack of support for a lossless file format such as TIFF is slightly disappointing. MoviesA nice feature of the camera meanwhile is its ability to record true motion pictures, in MPEG-VX format. In this “movie mode,” an additional two kinds of “movies” are supported: Clip Motion creates an animated GIF image of up to ten separately-shot frames, and Multi Burst shoots sixteen frames in customizably quick succession and stores these frames as a single image. If you prefer your movies with sound, there are two MPEG movie resolutions to choose from, 160x120 and 640x480. Both average about eight frames per second, and both record sound. The larger resolution naturally consumes available space like nothing else, and the smaller resolution seems too small graphically despite the obvious space savings. I would have liked to see and use a compromising 320x240 resolution for general purpose movies, but otherwise I am happy with the available choices. PlaybackWhile capturing your media may be the first thing you would want to do with a digital camera, the fun comes when you decide what to do with it. With this in mind, the Playback mode of the P10 is truly impressive, and offers features almost too numerous to list here. Most of these options focus on still images, and a lot can be done to previously captured photos without the need of a photo editing program. Viewing a still image on the built-in viewscreen can be slightly tricky if you want to check on some of the details, so the P10 conveniently lets you zoom in on an image with up to 5x magnification, and navigate around the image using the arrow keys. If a photo was accidentally taken at the wrong resolution, this can be changed at a later stage, although changing the resolution upwards of the original will, naturally, not automatically add detail that wasn’t there before. Individual images can be rotated on-screen (for viewing purposes only), protected against accidental deletion, or marked for printing at a shop or on a DPOF-compatible printer. Finally, media can be stored in separate folders on the removable media. Unfortunately, it seems that once media is captured it cannot be moved from one folder to another by using the camera alone, although this can be done by computer. When dealing with previously recorded movies, the camera lets you adjust the volume during playback, pause at any point, and even rewind and fast-forward through the movie. Even more interesting is the rudimentary movie editing functions on offer, which allow for cutting up the movie into segments, as well as the reordering and deleting of segments as necessary. Image sequences can be split in much the same way. In the event that you become tired of constantly pressing the back/forward buttons to navigate through all of your images, press the “zoom out” button. This lands you in multi-view mode, which displays thumbnails of nine pieces of media at a time. The cursor keys let you move around this view, and a scroll bar on the left hand side indicates how far down you are in the list of images for that folder. Zoom out further and you enter another view, which displays a thumbnail of an image alongside a detailed list of its properties. ConfigurationThe sixth and final mode deals with general camera configuration options, and neatly leads me into discussing various hardware features of this camera. As you would expect, this is where you set the date and time, language, and LCD features; this is also where you set various options relating to the media, along with the option of formatting it entirely and starting afresh. A number of more interesting settings include the option to turn off audio feedback, which I can see many people using once they become irritated by the constant beep-booping and imitation shutter sounds, and the choice between NTSC and PAL formats when mirroring what the camera sees on a television, using the supplied AV cable. StorageAs this camera is a Sony product, it happily supports Sony’s proprietary Memory Stick technology. Despite various complaints about its incompatibility with the more popular formats, the Memory Stick format is quickly coming into its own as a multi-purpose storage tool, with ports appearing in everything from electronic photo frames to Sony’s VAIO range of computers. Not that this matters when you connect the P10 to your Mac with the supplied USB cable; if you are running Mac OS X, this camera is supported without the need for any additional configuration. Once it’s plugged in the camera goes into USB mode, the Stick automatically mounts as just another external drive (albeit with a nice Memory Stick icon) and can immediately be used within the Finder, iPhoto, and even GraphicConverter. Classic Mac OS users will require a quick driver installation, but all is otherwise well. PortsThe three I/O ports—AC power, A/V, and USB—are located side-by-side on the back of the camera, behind a protective cover. While this cover makes perfect sense, it seems ever-so-slightly flimsy when it is unhinged and swung out the way. That there is nowhere for the hinged cover to go, added to the fact that it cannot be detached from the camera itself, leads to worries that too much stress on the hinge could lead to the cover snapping off entirely. DocumentationDocumentation, happily, is ample, and covers everything you would want to know about using the camera. The 100-plus-page manual not only covers the camera’s various functions and menu system, but also offers a comprehensive troubleshooting guide as well as a step-by-step instruction guide on how to use the camera with both Windows and the Mac OS. The manual even goes as far as including charts on how long a battery charge will last depending on how you use the camera (the average is about an hour and a half), how many pictures you can take depending on the image resolution and the size of the Memory Stick used, which image resolutions are suitable for which purpose, and so on. All in all, an essential reference. ConclusionSo, who is this camera geared towards? Although this is my first digital camera, there is the slight possibility that a first-timer might become overwhelmed by the sheer number of features offered by this camera, a few of which I only discovered today while writing this review. It’s certainly not for professional photographers: while the 5MP resolution delivers stunning results, professionals already carry larger, bulkier cameras offering resolutions of up to 13MP. No, it would appear that the DSC-P10 would appeal most to hobbyists or people otherwise reasonably serious about photography, who want a lot of features packed into a compact case and are prepared to pay for the privilege. It is an excellent all-rounder, which despite a few trivial drawbacks delivers brilliant results.
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Reader Comments (108)
I love the camera, but I was just a bit upset that I didn't get the things that are supposed to come with it.
Sony should be able to provide the password, but I'd hope that you'd be able to find it if you examine the packaging and some of the literature cards that came with the camera. Maybe the CD sleeve has the password on it.
In the case where this fails, one method you can try is to point the centre of the camera lens directly at the subject, half-press the shutter until the camera is focused on the subject, then (while half-pressed) point the camera at the desired shot angle before pressing the shutter release button down fully. This should preserve focus on the main subject.
This is explained in greater detail in the manual.
However if you have an AV-in card on your PC, you could plug the camera into there with the provided AV cables and have something similar to a webcam (with the right software).
Note that you'll only see firmware downloads for Macintosh. Drivers aren't necessary since OS X's Image Capture application should be able to interface with the camera with no extra software.
Resolution is the total number of dots/pixels in your file. It is possible (indeed, extremely common) to redefine an image to a different DPI yet keep the same resolution.
You're going to find that most consumer cameras like the CyberShots are going to save the image at 72 DPI. Some pro cameras will define 300 DPI.
Let's make this a bit simpler. Suppose you have an image that is exactly 300 pixels wide and 300 pixels tall. If this image is defined as 100 DPI (I'm using 100 instead of 72 for simpler math), that means the image will print 3 inches by 3 inches because you're told it to print 100 dots in an inch. However, because you're printing the pixels fairly large, you might see the pixelated jaggies in your image.
If, however, you define the image at 300 DPI, the image is now going to print at 1 inch by 1 inch. You haven't changed the resolution...it's still 300x300 pixels. You've only told it to print smaller pixels.
My Olympus camera also gives me 72 DPI images, but they're still 2560x1920 pixels. When I prepare one of these images for press, one of the first things I do is open the JPG in Photoshop, redefine it as 300 DPI, and save it as a TIFF so as not to degrade the image with more JPG compression. Without resampling (changing the number of pixels), 2560x1920 at 300 DPI (which I need for commercial press) translates to 8.53x6.4 inches. I can usually get away with blowing this size up to fill an 8.5x11 letter-sized page without degrading it too badly. If you're just using inkjet instead of commercial printing, 200 DPI is perfectly adequate, meaning that the 2560x1920 shot at 200 DPI is 12.8x9.6 inches.
So, just remember that resolution only refers to the total number of dots/pixels in the image and DPI only refers to defining how many of those pixels are printed in one inch of space.
No, you do not have to adjust the DPI when sending your shots to a photo center. In fact, it's probably best if you don't. Their equipment is going to make the assumption (rightfully so) that the customer is bringing in images directly from the camera, so it's probably calibrated to work best with the original 72 DPI files.
In truth, it probably doesn't really matter, especially since a few higher-end cameras actually do assign a 300 DPI setting to the files, so if you end up tweaking or otherwise enhancing a photo before taking it to a photo center, you should still be fine.
Lee, you seem to be knowledgeable -- any thoughts on whether there is a point in trying to influence Sony to release a firmware update that would make the P-10 PictBridge compatible? I notice that DSC-U50, DSC-U40, DSC-F828, DSC-T1, DSC-T11, DSC-P100, DSC-P120, DSC-W1, DSC-P73, DSC-P43, DSC-F88, DSC-P150, DSC-T3, DSC-L1 and DSC-V3 all are compatible...
I seriously doubt Sony would listen to one or two people writing/calling in asking them to spend money on software development for a product. This may work for small companies—or even individuals—creating shareware and are actively seeking customer input, but large companies like Sony would never get anything new created if they had to deal with every individual person's "suggestion" on how something might be better.
On the other hand, if you managed to get a large percentage of P-10 users to say they wanted PictBridge compatibility (and, by the way, I actually have no idea what PictBridge is...at the moment), then Sony might pay attention.
As you noted prior to using a sony cyber shot as webcam using the audio video jacks... what software would i need and were can i download it. any other suggestions? besides buying a web cam or digital camcorder
I haven't ever used a CyberShot camera, so what I'm telling you is generic advice for any digital camera. On my Olympus or my Nikon, I can manually lock the ASA to something like 400 if I wanted to reduce grain. What you may also try is turning off your tree lights, turning on a lamp or some sort of light source to illuminate your daughter's face, letting the camera get an exposure for that and lock it, then turn the tree lights back on and take the picture. Even better would be if you can control the intensity of the flash, though I couldn't say whether the P10 has this feature. On my flash, I can dial down its intensity so that it only fills in a little bit instead of blasting out the entire tree. It also has a setting to use the flash, but also leave the shutter open as if you were exposing without the flash. I've managed some very interesting results doing that kind of thing before, such as this photo. I took another shot like this one with only a full flash and totally lost the color of the room lights. And taking it without any flash would have made the singer's face almost unrecognizable. But as you see, the lower power flash exposed the singer very well, yet the longer shutter speed brought in the color of the room. You can even see some blur of the longer exposure in the singer's arm playing the guitar and in the cymbal.
As far as getting your daughter to sit still, there's no magic trick for that. You're on your own to convince her. However, there shouldn't be need to make her sit like a statue for a couple seconds. With the proper illumination, you should be able to expose the picture for less than 1 second.
You definitely shouldn't try to enlarge pictures you've already taken at 1.2 megapixel. That will only degrade them. If, however, you'd like to make 8x10 prints, you should take all future shots at a minimum of 2 megapixel—higher if possible.
Many cheaper digicams, eg, those of Genius brand can be used as webcams.
Any direction or advice will be greatly appreciated!
Judy - check local (but authorized) camera shops. Maybe something spilled in the select button and it just needs a good cleaning, or perhaps just to replace the contact underneath the button.
I myself would like the camera to be PictBridge cmpatible, I am sure SOny uses simpiar software for all its cameras, just some extra options here and there, and that adding PictBridge would probably be a snap. It is just distrubuting it that would be the problem. Heck I'd pay a small upgrade fee for the feature as I just bought a CP400 dye sublimination printer that is super compact and it is PictBridge compatible. I'd like to print pics where ever I am, but for now can deal as I never really go anywhere anyway!
The Camera is good, I like it alot and have been true to the cybershot camera since I bough a P3 4 years ago. I then upgraded to the P10 ad love them for their small size and great pictures. I also really like the 1GIG memory stick as I never worry about running out of space, but I needed more batteries!!
Great camera.... NEEDS PICTBRIDGE!!!!
Scott
For fast moving pictures, switch the camera to the setting with the guy playing golf image. Thats "action" mode which is quick shutter but requires more light. Goto "SCN" on the dial hit "MENU" tab over to "SCN" and thats where the shutter options are.
Scott
At least 10 out of 20 pics are blurred when i use my dsc-p10 indoors. I do hold the camera as steady as possible and mostly shot still objects.
Please Help-
Thank you
is this problem common for p10 and other cybershot digicams?
I just purchased the DPP-FP30 digital printer but have discovered it is not compatible with my PC-10. The box for the printer should advertise it is not compatible with ALL Cybershot cameras i.e. the PC-10.
I just bought a new DSC P120 and i put batteries to charge, after the battery was charged I tried to turn it on, but when i tried, it only turns on for about 2 seconds and then turns off, and this is repeating every time i tried that. I tried to turn it on with adapter (battery charger) plugged in - and it's work.Can you help me, is there some special battery instalation or battery is not good or it is a hardware mistake... Please...
while over at my father's house he showed me a peculiar error on his dsc-p10: when the camera mode is turned on, the lens extends, twists and "whirs" for a while, then retracts completely and the screen says "turn power off and on again." this happens with all three of his batteries, and even while plugged into the ac adapter. no matter how many times the power is turned off, and then on again, the same message appears. is there any known fix for this? (i did not see this mentioned above, so if it is please direct me to that post, if not...HELP!)
-Dean
Thanh Ng
When I view scenes in preparation for taking pictures I see intermittent white lines (arcing) across the display. When I take a picture these become faint blue lines on the digital pictures.
I tried running the camera off the adaptor without battery in place - same thing.
Looks like a bad connection or bad device somewhere within the electronics...
Anyone any ideas?
Is this easily fixed? any help would be great.
This is not an answer to your problem...but my P43 is now doing the same thing!!!!!!
Did you find out what the problem was?
Sam
I owna DSC p10 model. Last week it slipped and the lcd screen was damaged. I have had good experience with this model and the pictures delivered by it are of good quality.
I am looking for optoins to get the LCD screen replaced. Can anyone from this group give me some pointers?
Thanks,darshan
I don't have a new battery to compare but there seems to be a problem with the charger. I think it stops the charge because of getting wrong info from the battery pack.
Is there a way to bluff the charger so it will charge the battery? I think that maybe the charger stops charging because of false indication from the battery.
Thanks
no luck...and this forum board seems to be reather unresponsive. you find anything? i'd appreciate a solution if you've found one :-)
x33rpm@hotmail.com.
thanks.
Thank you. MSG
It seems the battery was too drained for my camera to start charging it. Another camera managed to do the trick. Now I recharge it BEFORE it is completely empty.
I am having the same problem with my camera(DSC-P10) as it was mentioned below earlier on this forum. Please help us on this.
Niru
http://esupport.sony.com/EN/tutorials/dvimag/cpdsi000026.pdf
On my way to buy such a cable.
This won't work for me as I have a newborn son and I obviously want some photos over the next 30 days. When I spoke to a supervisor and asked for a voucher to buy a new camera (where I'd probably spend $400 or more beyond the value of the voucher on a new Sony) they refused.
Amazing what a lack of business sense these companies have in their customer service policies. Now they're going to pay for me to ship them my camera, have it repaired and shipped back to me. Then I'm going to sell it on E-bay, I'll purchase a new $500+ camera that is not a Sony and I'll never buy or trust a Sony product again.
Gotta love inept customer service.
The lens go back in as soon as it finish extending and a message come on the screen saying:
"For infoLITHIUM battery Only."
I have the correct battery for it. The one in the specs (Sony NP-FC11). I have changed the battery to make sure it was not something wrong with the one I had buy no change. I works when I plug the AC adapter in there but no luck with the battery
If there is a fix please alert me of it @
kijar_Sony_DSC-P10_Camera_Problem@kijar.com
http://esupport.sony.com/perl/news-item.pl?mdl=DSCP10&news_id=95
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