As you
already know, in checkers, you lose if you are stalemated. The above idea is
called the block game, for obvious reasons. White is usually (not always) the
winner of a block game.Return to my Checkers pages
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© Copyright 1998, Jim Loy
You may print this and show it to
others. But, this article will eventually be part of a book that I am writing.
So, please do not distribute it widely.
If you need help reading checkers notation, please print out the numbered board.
Here is a game shown in Ben Boland's Famous Positions. He seems to attribute the game to Hugh Egan. This game is also found in Kear's Encyclopedia, where it is unattributed.
10-15 23-18 12-16 21-17 9-13 24-20 16-19 17-14 6-9 27-24 1-6 32-27 8-12 25-21 12-16 27-23 (21-17? 7-10 RW or 30-25 RW? H. Egan?) 6-10? (7-10 or 13-17 R. Egan?) 21-17 4-8 29-25 8-12 25-21 3-8 30-25 2-6 31-27 WW [diagram]
As you
already know, in checkers, you lose if you are stalemated. The above idea is
called the block game, for obvious reasons. White is usually (not always) the
winner of a block game.
Is this a practical way to play? Personally, I've found it a dangerous way to play. I often overlook a way that my opponent can avoid the block, and then I am left with no safe moves. Theoretically, it's at least as dangerous for my opponent (Red). So, if I'm careful, I should do all right. And if you're Red, you must foresee an escape, or you are lost.
Here's a block game from Kear's Encyclopedia, with some captures:
9-13 22-17 13-22 25-18 6-9 29-25 11-15 18-11 8-15 25-22 4-8 23-18 8-11 26-23 9-13 21-17 2-6 18-14 6-9 23-18 1-6 30-25 3-8 24-20 15-19 31-26 12-16 27-23 10-15 32-27 6-10 27-24 8-12 25-21 WW
Block games are not necessarily symmetric.