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More on Pursuits & Retreats from The Atlantic Monthly.


Contents | October 2006


Also by Jeffrey Tayler:

"Escape to Old Russia" (October 2006)
The Golden Ring, northeast of Moscow, offers a respite from the capital and an immersion in the past.

"Worse Than Iraq?" (April 2006)
Nigeria's president and onetime hope for a stable future is leading his country toward implosion—and possible U.S. military intervention.

"Going Coastal" (March 2006)
Away from the heat and bustle of Morocco’s historic cities lie some of the friendliest and most tranquil places in North Africa.

  

The Atlantic Monthly | October 2006
 
Pursuits & Retreats

The Travel Advisory

by Jeffrey Tayler

.....

T he Golden Ring is just a three- to five-hour drive from Moscow. Renting a car, though expensive (about $100 a day), will maximize your flexibility once there. The roads north of Moscow can be challenging: keep an eye out for aggressive truckers, axle-breaking potholes, and—even on the highways—the occasional horse-drawn cart. Trains to the Ring depart frequently from Yaroslavl Station, in central Moscow. Volga ferries, however, provide a more unusual experience. (Ferry tickets must be booked through tour agencies.) Once in the Ring towns, you can order taxis through your hotel concierge for reasonable rates fixed in advance.

Consider hiring a local guide—they can be very knowledgeable—to take you to the churches and cathedrals; ask for recommendations at your hotel’s reception desk. Alternatively, Lonely Planet’s Russia & Belarus provides enough information for independent visits. In all houses of worship, both sexes should dress conservatively: men should not wear shorts, and women should bring a scarf to cover their hair.

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Copyright © 2006 by The Atlantic Monthly Group. All rights reserved.
The Atlantic Monthly; October 2006; The Travel Advisory; Volume 298, No. 3; 130


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