Date: Fri, 08 Dec 1995 15:01:24 -0700
From: mscalora@itsnet.com (Mike Scalora) Organization: Novell
Mime-Version: 1.0
To: mscalora@itsnet.com (Mike Scalora)
Subject: [HOWTO] [Fwd: Re: Unglue Titebond??] Status: RO

From: hbk@shivasys.com (HEARTBREAK KID)
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Subject: Re: Unglue Titebond??
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 15:50:59 GMT
Organization: Pennsylvania Online! [Usenet News Server for hire] Lines: 25
Message-ID: <49cmf2$ik7@news.paonline.com> References: 
<49c8uf$g7j@newsbf02.news.aol.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: sl04.shivasys.com
X-Newsreader: Forte Free Agent 1.0.82
Path: 
gronk.provo.novell.com!grok.provo.novell.com!news.cs.utah.edu!dog.ee.lbl.gov!agate!howland.reston.ans.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news.sprintlink.net!nuclear.microserve.net!news.paonline.com!usenet 


rmmorgan@aol.com (RMMorgan) wrote:

>I glued a half-lap joint with both surfaces being face grain. I used 
Titebond glue (not Titebond II). Is there any way I can unglue this joint, 
by using steam or whatever?

Yep. If it hasn't been glued for more than a week or so, just heat it real 
good (sitting next to a heater will do it if you're careful not to catch 
the thing on fire). After a week, will take a combination of heat and 
water to do it.

Titebond and most other "carpenter's glues" are thermal glues that will 
become liquid again with the application of heat. Some guys use it for 
veneering with an iron and get excellent results (I'm not one of them but 
the method is to brush both pieces with glue, let them dry, put them in 
place and iron). Can be removed the same way (by ironing) for about a week 
if necessary...as in sanding thru veneer like an idiot and having to 
replace it). 

If piece is small enough and you don't mind waterlog, throw it in a 
bathtub full of hot water. I've removed Titebond and Titebond II from 
paint brushes that it's dried on for a month by simply soaking them 
overnight in a coffee cup full of what starts out to be hot tap water. HBK