This is a "chess thinking system" I've put together to serve the
following purposes:
1) To consult step-by-step when playing correspondence
chess ("CC") games, and use it to determine the best possible move at
each turn (or at least, the best possible move that I'm personally capable of
determining . . . ).
2) To consult step-by-step during post-game analysis of both CC and
over-the-board ("OTB") games, and use it to help me to evaluate the
moves I played, and to try to find better moves at the points where I made poor
ones.
3) By regularly using this system for 1) and 2) above, I hope to discipline my
chess thinking OTB, to help me choose my moves in a more careful and systematic
manner.
You'll notice the quotation marks around the word "my" on the title
of this page. That's for two reasons. First, it's obviously a play
on Nimzowitsch's infamous treatise "My System". Second, it's
meant to add an ironic tone, since there's nothing terribly original-to-me
about this system. It is basically an amalgamation, revision, and
restructuring of various systems and thinking techniques put forward by a whole
bunch of authors, mainly including Silman, Purdy, Pandolfini, Kotov, Seirawan,
Hartston, and Soltis. A few miscellaneous things may have come from other
sources, but I'll be darned if I can remember where. And I've added and
modified some things myself, of course.
Keep in mind that it is not the purpose of this list to
explain all of the various strategic factors mentioned. That would take
many, many books (many of which I've listed in my "Suggestions
for Improving Your Play"
article). This list will be of most value to you if you already have a
fair amount of chess understanding.
Also keep in mind that this, like everything else I write, is just something that I've been using, and have been finding useful, and
so I thought I'd share it with you. Check it out, take from it anything
that works for you, and discard the rest.
So here it is - enjoy!
Okay, so it's your move. What do you do?
OPENING BOOK MOVES: If you are still in the opening, and have some opening
theory to rely on (e.g., books and databases for CC, or memorized lines for
OTB), then play your opening book moves. However, make sure that you
understand the ideas behind the opening moves you are making! There's
nothing worse than finding yourself in a middlegame position that you don't
understand . . .
ENDGAMES: The system detailed below (especially the sections on strategy) is
primarily one for middlegames. So if you have entered an endgame, then
make sure you pursue the appropriate endgame plans, which can usually be
determined rather straightforwardly from the type of endgame you are in (e.g.,
rook and pawn; minor piece; king and pawn; etc.). These are far too
numerous to list here, but generally easy to find in endgame books,
encyclopedias, and databases. However, do take care that you do not
become careless (as is easy to do in endgames, especially if you are winning);
carelessness tends to lead to blunders and missed tactical opportunities (be
especially careful to avoid stalemate). To that end, be sure to consult
the "Patzer Talk", "Tactics and Combinations", and
"Threats" sections below.
PATZER TALK: Look carefully at your opponent's last move, and ask yourself,
like you did back when you were a rank beginner: "What does my opponent's
last move do? Does it attack something? Defend something?
Leave something undefended? Hang a piece? What purpose might
lie behind the move? Where might the piece be headed on the next move or
two? What could it do from there?" Etc., etc.,
etc. This should help you avoid any outright blunders.
TACTICS AND COMBINATIONS: Evaluate the position, tactically. Are there
any obvious tactics? For you or your opponent? Do you have any
sound combinations (i.e., which win without unacceptable compromise)? If
not, then does your opponent? A combination / tactic is typically present
when: a) there is an obvious mating pattern; b) the King is vulnerable (i.e.,
is in a central location, has a damaged, weakened, or missing pawn cover, has
no defenders (or fewer potential defenders than potential attackers), or has no
legal move (i.e., is stalemated)); c) there are pieces which are un- or
inadequately-defended; d) there are critical squares (usually squares containing
pieces or squares on which mate could be delivered, which currently have the
same number of attackers and defenders, which could be weakened by adding
attackers (often while simultaneously attacking something else) or removing
defenders, via typical tactical methods.
N.B.: Look at every possible capture, check, and threat
against weaknesses.
N.B.: Look for possible zwischenzug / surprise rejoinders.
N.B.: Look for typical geometric patterns.
N.B.: Look for forks (esp. pawn & knight), pins (absolute & relative), skewers,
X-rays, windmills, double attacks, double checks, discovered attacks, discovered
checks, deflections, overworked pieces, under-protected pieces, decoys,
batteries on ranks / files / diagonals, clearance sacrifices, exchange
sacrifices, other sacrifices, zwischenzug,
zugzwang, draws, stalemates, blockades, fortresses, perpetual checks, perpetual
pursuit, passed pawns, pawn promotions, breakthroughs (esp. that lead to pawn
promotion), under-promotions, weak back ranks, destroying the king's cover,
blocking the king (e.g., leading to smothered mates), interference,
removing / destroying the guard, trapping pieces, etc.
N.B.: Most combinations involve some form of double-attack.
N.B.: Double-check calculations by varying move-order (both for you and your
opponent).
N.B.: Always look one move further than it seems you need to; sometimes after
the checks and captures come to an end, there will be a powerful "quiet
move" or rejoinder, either for you or your opponent.
THREATS: After you've determined whether or not there are any tactics or
combinations, ask yourself, "What are my opponent's threats?
Considering each, can I ignore it? Prevent it? Accept and counter
it?" Look at each possible way you can respond to your opponent's
threats, and start with the most straightforward. Only enter into
complications if the straightforward moves fail and / or if the tactics demand
it. Make sure you calculate each line thoroughly and accurately (no
laziness!), and clearly visualize each resulting position to make sure that it
is to your liking.
N.B.: When defending, keep in mind Soltis' principle of economy: deal with each
threat as straightforwardly as possible, making as few commitments and
concessions as possible.
N.B.: When defending, keep in mind Soltis' principle of (un)exploitable
weaknesses: a weakness is only a weakness if it can be exploited.
N.B.: Active defense is usually better than passive defense - always look for
counter-play.
"OBVIOUS" MOVES: Now ask yourself, "Do I have an obvious move,
such as a forced move or a clear win? If so, is there a better
move? Can I with advantage make another move first? (Zwischenzug!)
If there is no single obvious move or zwischenzug, then is my choice limited to
a few obvious moves from which I can choose without using this system? Is
this a technical position (like certain endgames) which does not require this
system?"
All the stuff above will probably allow you to choose the majority of your
moves during a game, especially in OTB play. However, there will be times
when the game has reached a state of dynamic equilibrium, there are no obvious
tactics or combinations, and no threats to which you must respond
immediately. In such cases, you will have to determine a plan of
action. The following sections on strategy and planning are meant to help
you with that. This is especially called for when you have reached a
critical position, including, but not limited to: a) piece exchanges,
especially the more valuable the pieces being exchanged; b) potential changes
in the pawn structure, especially in the center; c) the end of a more or less
series of forced moves which requires a choice of viable alternatives.
STRATEGY: Evaluate the position, strategically. To do this, determine the
imbalances, for both sides. These include:
- position of the king
- possibility of a successful attack on the king
- material
- who would be better off if the queens were exchanged
- pawn structure
- the center: type / status / control thereof
- control or potential control of: key files (open, semi-open, easily opened,
etc.); diagonals; ranks; weak or strong squares and / or square complexes and / or
color complexes (esp. in relation to pawn structure and bishops); outposts,
etc.
- minor pieces
- "informal" material balance (e.g., Q v. 3 minor pieces; B v. N; R
& p v. N & B, etc.)
- good / bad piece position / mobility / influence / coordination
- space
- lead in development
- initiative
- other differences between the armies
- potential endgames
PLANNING: Formulate a plan based on your strategic evaluation of the
position. (This is a huge subject, which I can't possibly explain
here. You'll have to study up on your strategy: consult the various books
I've recommend in my "Suggestions
for Improving Your Play" article. However, having said
that, I do offer a variety of practical tips further below for planning - check
'em out.) To help you select a plan, dream up desirable positions (within
the constraints of your strategic evaluation of the position), and see whether
or not they are feasible at first glance.
CANDIDATE MOVES: If the positions you've dreamed up seem feasible at first
glance, then consider candidate moves which might lead to your dream
positions. Usually, there won't be more than 3 or 4 reasonable candidate
moves.
CALCULATE: Arrange candidate moves in order of preference, eliminating those
not worth analyzing. Start with most desirable candidate move.
(There are a variety of practical tips further below to help you decide.)
Take into account your opponent's candidate moves. Calculate.
(There are a variety of practical tips further below to help you
calculate.) Double-check calculations by varying move-order (both for you
and your opponent). If the calculation leads to naught, go to the next
candidate move. Repeat as necessary. Feel free to jump to earlier
lines of analysis if later ones shed some light on them or give you new ideas.
N.B.: Most middlegame positions do not require that you calculate more than two
or three moves ahead (unless you come across a tactical sequence or
combination, in which case you must calculate it out to the end).
EVALUATE, AGAIN!: It's important not only that you calculate correctly, and not
only that you visualize the resulting position accurately, but also that you
evaluate the resulting position correctly, to make sure that it really is the
kind of resulting position you'd like to achieve. To that end, you have
to evaluate each and every possible resulting position which might occur from
any of the lines of play which you are considering. And to do this, you
need to go through this entire system again for each possible resulting
position: check it for tactics, combinations, threats, and make sure that it is
strategically sound. (But don't worry about planning any further.
Just make sure that the position is a favorable, and you can plan when you get
there.)
LAST MINUTE BLUNDER CHECK: Write down the move and visualize it clearly before
making it, to avoid blunders. Like a patzer, ask yourself, "What
does my move do? Attack something? Defend something? Leave
something undefended? Hang a piece?" Etc. Think to
yourself, "How might my opponent respond to my move? What would I do
in his / her position?" In a CC game, always take at least 24 hours
before sending a reply, to avoid hasty moves which might turn out to be
blunders upon further consideration.
PRACTICAL TIPS: Here are a variety of practical tips to
consider when planning and calculating:
Take into account the degree of commitment of each move: usually, you want to
make the move with the fewest possible commitments, and which leaves you with
the most possible flexibility.
Avoid unclear complications.
Avoid simplifying the position unless there is something definite you stand to
gain.
Don't rush your plans unless absolutely necessary! If possible, take the
time to strengthen your position, repair and / or prevent weaknesses, and stop /
prevent enemy counterplay.
When you see a good move, look for a better one! (If
you have time . . . )
Think in terms of countering / preventing your opponent's advantages and
causing / exploiting his / her weaknesses, while also gaining / exploiting your own
advantages and preventing / repairing your own weaknesses. Preferably both
at the same time; otherwise, prioritize.
Think in terms of plans appropriate to the openings being played and the pawn
structure arising.
Sometimes the best plan is to wait for your opponent to have an idea and then
show her / him what's wrong with it.
Sometimes it is better to do nothing well, than something poorly: if all your
calculation comes to naught, consider a passing move, or setting a subtle,
risk-free "trap".
If you can't think of anything at all, consider moving a piece you haven't
moved in a while.
Decent plans if all else fails: a) repair any weakness and prevent any
potential weaknesses; b) improve piece position / mobility / influence /
coordination; c) threaten / cause / provoke weaknesses in your opponent’s
position.
Given a choice between 2 (or more) equally good moves,
consider the one which gives your opponent more chances to go wrong.
Pay attention to transitions: you must be willing to give up one advantage if
another better one arises.
Look for transitions to a favorable endgame.
Don't overlook useful "backwards" moves.
Don't overlook useful king moves.
Generally, you want to play on the side of the board where favorable imbalances
do / could exist.
When in doubt, play in the center.
The threat is often stronger than the execution!
Never leave yourself with no favorable imbalances! It is better to
sacrifice material for some compensation than to sit around passively.
One positive imbalance in itself is not usually enough to win, but two often
are.
Don't blindly follow general principles; always evaluate the particular
position in front of you!
This system is designed to structure your thinking when it
is your turn to make a move. But what should you do when it is your
opponent's move? Sometimes the position or time pressure will demand that
you continue thinking systematically, trying to anticipate your opponent's next
move (this is especially possible when your opponent has a limited number of
choices (e.g., if (s)he has to respond to a check, etc.)), and thinking about how
you will respond. Most often, however, it will be difficult for you to do
any concrete planning or calculation, simply because you don't know what your
opponent's next move will be. In such cases, I suggest you move away from
the structured "left-brained" mode of thinking which the system above
represents, and move to a more "right-brained" mode of
thinking. Just sit and look at the board and dream about what sorts of
positions you would like to see if you had any choice. Look at pieces and
areas of the board you haven't looked at in a while, and see if anything
interesting pops out at you. You might even want to get up and walk away
from the board for a few minutes, letting the position bounce around in your
head in a lazy, undisciplined sort of way. Often, I find that when I'm
away from the board, not really thinking about it too hard, but letting it
bounce around in the back of my mind, that some idea will suddenly jump out at
me which I can bring back to the board, and look at more closely under the
microscope of the above system.
That's it! That's my system! Give it a try, and
let me know what you think, and as always, Good Luck!
Copyright 2002 S. Evan Kreider. Used with permission.
