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Hair Typing Systems

We don't like to categorize our heads of hair on Nappturality, trying to maintain that ALL hair no matter how kinky, curly, wavy and zig zagged it is, is GOOD hair. However, it is sometimes necessary to differentiate hair types due to the differences in care and product usage necessary. What I don't want to do is bring in an ste in stone *labelling* system to categorize our hair in general terms, for instance, the "Andre" system of Type 4 hair.

Andre's type 4 hair was a blanket generalization of our hair which was said to be the "worst" hair out of his category system.

Eg: 4a = well at least you have some coils. 4b = get the straightener out and 4c = just shave it off and buy a wig.

What people don't realize is that it is rare to have just ONE Andre hairtype on your head. Andre just says it's a "4" and lumps us all into a,b,c or z depending on the level of nappiness and undesirability (badness).

So there's another system: the LOIS system.

L = l shaped strands
O = round circular coils
I = straight with angular or sharp bends
S = s curls

Nappturality tried using this for a few months but it did not catch on. However I still feel it is the best characterization of our hair yet. I can guarantee you, you have these types of strands on your head in great amounts. No matter what "type" of hair you have.

Most napptural hair falls within the LOIS system. You may have a combination of all these strand types all over your head, or just dominated by one. The hair on top may be different from the hair underneath. Then there's the kitchen and hairline...

If you must use one of Andre's system types to name your hair, it is your choice. However keep in mind where this came from and learn more about your hair. You will find that that simplistic system does not do your beautiful crown the justice it deserves.

After washing your hair, pull a single strand out of your head, from underneath is the best place, since it is less likely to be damaged by the sun or dryness. Place it on a contrasting surface and study it... see how it falls. Does it curl up like slinky? Does it turn into a bunch of S's? Does it have sharp angles? Does it stay straight, with the occasional bend? When you roll it between your fingers does it "catch" or is it a "smooth" roll?

This is your first step in telling you how and why your hair does what it does.

Hair Types

We come in all shapes, sizes and colors... and our hair comes in all shapes, widths and textures. It is difficult to categorize hair because of all the variation that occurs. However, attempts have been made to categorize in an effort to help people better know their hair.

Black/afro-type hair is difficult to categorize for a few reasons:

1) our hair differs in pattern - coils, springs. zig zags, s-curves

2) our hair differs in pattern size - watch spring to chalk size

3) our hair differs in density - sparse, dense

4) our hair differs in strand diameter - fine, medium, wide

5) our hair differs in feel - cottony, wooly, spongy

And on one head it is possible to have all 5 category differences represented somewhere, each reacting differently to the same routine.

Andr� Walker, Oprah's stylist, came up with a system in his book, which put all hair into categories. Number 1 being straight Asian type hair and 4 being "kinky" or "nappy" or "tightly coiled" African American type hair. He then divided the numbers with a lettering system, 'a' being the straightest within a category, 'b' being the next curly.. etc and so on down.

Shine - hair that reflects light along its surface.

Sheen - hair that sparkles as light bounces off it.

Patterns

L = Bend

O = Curl

I = Straight

S = Wave

Strands can beThick, Medium or Thin/Fine

One half of a piece of inexpensive sewing thread (such as the kind that is contained in those palm sized personal sewing kits) split in two is about the thickness of a medium strand size of human hair. If you hair is larger than this, then your strand size is thick. If you hair is smaller than the split thread, then your hair strand is thin, or fine. If you want to compare your hair strand to a split piece of thread, it can be done by moving the thread back and forth between your thumb and forefinger holding the free end taunt.

Textures*

Thready - low sheen, high shine, low frizz

Wiry - sparkly sheen, low shine, low frizz

Cottony - low sheen, low shine, high frizz

Spongy - high sheen, low shine, high frizz

Silky - low sheen, high shine, low frizz

Thready texture of hair usually has a low sheen, with high shine if the hair is held taunt (as in a braid), with low frizz. Wets easily but water dries out quickly.
Wiry hair textures have sparkle sheen, with low shine and low frizz. Water beads up or bounces off the hair strands. Hair never seems to get fully wet.
Cottony hair texture will have a low sheen, a high shine if the hair is held taunt and has high frizz. Absorbs water quickly but does not get thoroughly wet very fast.
Spongy hair has a high sheen with low shine with a compacted looking frizz. Absorbs water before it gets thoroughly wet.
Silky hair has low sheen, a very high shine, with a lot or low frizz. Easily wets in water.

How to determine which hair type you have:

Remove a single strand of the most common type of hair on your head. Aim for 70%, so if you have different textures, use the most common texture on your head.
The hair should be freshly washed without products applied to it and rinsed in cold water. Or, gently rinse a single hair with a little dish detergent and rinse in cold water.
Lay the hair on an absorbent paper towel to dry.
When the hair is completely dry, look at the pattern without touching it.

If the hair has all bends, right angles and folds with little to no curve then you are L.

If the strand is rolled up into the shape of one or several zeros like a spiral, then you are O.

If the hair lies mostly flat with no distinctive curve or bend you are I.

If the strand looks like a wavy line with hills and valleys then you are S.

It will be common to have a combination of the LOIS letters, (with more dominant) which can help you determine which daughter of LOIS you are. If you cannot see one letter over the others, then combine the letters. Example: LO or IL or OS.

With all this in mind, we'll combine Andre's system with LOIS for a general category, then further divide us into more detail. It is important to understand that every head of hair is different and it's impossible to include everyone's exact hair. A close-as mentality is best when viewing other women's hair.

Visuals

We have included some pictures here of type 3 to 4 combination, napptural and biracial type hair. It's important to address here because these hairtypes found in the Black community, too.

		S-curls/coils. Combed or brushed, it becomes a light, fluffy 4a afro. Usually a lot of product is needed to maintain definition in this hairtype.
		O-shaped strands. Curly AA hair. Very curly, but not coily, It also has a high shine factor which indicates more rounded hair strands, rather than flat, ribbon-like 4a hair strands.
		I-shaped strands.Wavy to straight AA hair, with some corkscrew curls, high shine factor, curls are wavy and corkscrewed rather than coily.
	Multiple textures on one head:
	Combed, damp product-free hair.

4a-OS
(Dominant OS pattern, although L and I may also be present)

The first pic is my combed, dried 4a, OS hair. In the second pic it's dripping wet.

4a-OS dense hair tends to feel spongy.

4a-OS fine hair tends to feel cottony.

4a-OS wide strand diameter tends to feel wiry.

OS hair coils into springs and s-curls when wet, with the occasional spiral curl.

These springs can range in diameter from chalk to pen spring size.

The smaller diameter the coils, the more shrinkage is expected.

These springs and coils may disappear when hair is dry or combed/picked.

Hair may lose it's sheen when combed and/or dried, needing a shine product to revitalise it.

This hairtype can be sheeny or shiny when glossing products are used.

It doesn't straighten easily if the strands are coarse.

When it grows long it sits more outward than downward.

4a hairtype may hold a shake & go style and coil definition with the right products.

It holds wet twists and comb coils tightly and very well for long periods.

Stays moisturized with the right products

This hairtype may not hold a press well because it reacts quickly to moisture.

4b-LI
(Dominant LI pattern, although O and S may also be present)

The first pic is close cropped 4b hair. The second is longer 4b hair.

4b-LI dense hair tends to feel coarse if strands are wide.

4b-LI fine diameter hair tends to feel cottony and slightly rough.

4b-LI wide strand diameter tends to feel wiry and coarse.

4b-LI hair is the most fragile because of zig zag angles of the hair strands

The smaller the zig zags, the more shrinkage is expected.

4b-LI normally doesn't shrink as much as a similar pattern size 4a.

4b-LI does not reflect light easily so it doesn't have a natural shine.

It tends to straighten easily with heat but may flatten out before puffing out in humidity.

It will shrink upwards and inwards when drenched.

4b-LI tends to grow outward and sit downward once it has length.

4b-LI may be a combination of very small, tight coils and zig zags.

4b-LI does not have coil definition so may look fuzzy at the ends.

It holds wet twists & coils but may need to be re-done more often than 4a to hold.

This hairtype tends towards dryness and needs extra moisturizing to maintain softness.

Boar or natural bristle brushes are good for this hairtype to achieve a sleek look and distribute natural oils while still being gentle on the hair.

Because of the zig zags and tight coils, this hairtype is perfect for locking quickly.

Relaxer Truths

Sandy's Journey
About Chemical Relaxers
by Diamonique

Recently I had to give a persuasive speech in school. I had to pick a subject and write a speech to persuade people to change their actions or their way of thinking about that subject. I chose chemical relaxers as my subject. I thought I'd add this speech to the web site -- just to give you a little information about why chemical relaxers are bad.

This information was derived from Tulani Kinard's book "No Lye" and Pamela Ferrell's book "Let's Talk Hair". Both books can be ordered through my Book Nook. If you're thinking of giving up the creamy crack, I highly recommend these books. There's a wealth of helpful information in them. They have become my hair bibles and helped me a lot once I made the decision to....

STOP LIVING THE LYE!

This is a phrase that I read in a book when I was researching what I could do with my hair other than use chemicals to straighten it. So many women today suffer from all types of hair loss. Alopecia, age, heredity, and stress are some of the most common causes. The cause that is found in almost epidemic proportions in black women, however, is chemical damage from relaxers -- or chemical hair straighteners.

The Process
Most of us have no idea what these relaxers really do to our hair... how they actually go about the process of straightening. There are two types of relaxers. They are SODIUM HYDROXIDE (lye-based) and GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE (no-lye). Although the no-lye products are thought to be less damaging, both types are harmful to the hair because in order to straighten it, they must first strip it of its natural moisture and then break down the structure of the hair.

Let me briefly explain. The hair has two bonds, a physical bond and a chemical bond, referred to as the S and H bonds. These bonds create the S-shaped kink or curl in African-American hair. Chemically processing the hair changes the molecular structure by breaking down these bonds... thereby damaging the hair. Once the bonds are broken, the hair loses its natural shape and elasticity, and can then be manually formed into straight hair. The changed S-shape bond can never be returned to its original healthy form. It has undergone a permanent change caused by chemical damage.

Hair Damage
Sodium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide both have a very high pH factor, meaning they are highly alkaline products. When applied to the hair, they immediately strip it of all moisture, because any retention of moisture would reduce the effectiveness of the straightener. This is why a deep-conditioning treatment is always applied to the hair after the chemical process. These treatments are designed to drive moisture back into the hair shaft and to coat the hair strand to make it look shiny and appear healthy, or in other words -- to camouflage the damage. But no hair that has undergone a chemical relaxer is healthy. It’s been purposely and permanently damaged by the chemicals... and hair can’t be damaged and healthy at the same time.

Relaxed hair is always dry. This is why we’re constantly putting something on it.. oiling our hair and scalp two or three times a week. There are several reasons for this: 1) Start with the moisture-stripping process of the chemical relaxer that I spoke about in the above paragraph; 2) Add the steady regimen of hot-comb touch-ups, curling irons & flat irons (all work with heat which is drying to the hair) and hair sprays and styling/holding gels, (these contain alcohol which is drying to the hair). The natural oils our scalps produce can’t serve our hair’s needs. The scalp can’t manufacturer enough natural moisture to replenish the moisture we’re stripping from our hair on a daily basis; and 3) The products we usually use in an attempt to fight dryness (usually petroleum-based products, or "grease") don’t really add moisture to the hair at all. They simply coat the hair with petroleum to provide shine. At the same time, they clog the pores of the scalp so that the scalp can’t secrete its own natural moisture.

I always thought black hair either doesn’t grow as fast as Caucasian hair – or doesn’t grow at all. WRONG! All hair grows at the same rate – on average ½ inch per month. But the reason that most black women have shorter hair is because of breakage. Why does the hair break? Because of the harsh treatment we give it. We strip it of its moisture in every way we possibly can! So after a period of time (short for some, a little longer for others) the need for a cut to camouflage the damage done to your hair will become evident. When your stylist suggests a “designer cut” (like the fade), that should be your cue that your hair has had enough.

Skin Absorption
In addition to the damage done to the hair by these chemicals, we should remember that the process involves more than simply straightening or texturizing the hair above the scalp.Chemicals are absorbed through the skin into the tissue, cells, and blood stream. We rub creams and lotions on our skin -- knowing that the skin will absorb them and be moisturized by them. The medical industry administers drugs through skin absorption -- like the patches for smoking, sea-sickness, and birth control. The skin absorbs everything; and as strong as these chemicals are – causing sores and abrasions on the scalp – why wouldn’t some of it be absorbed through the skull and possibly into the brain?

Causticity
The instructions on the relaxer boxes always say to wear gloves -- because the chemicals are caustic, however it is applied directly to the hair and scalp and left there for a period of time. Women experience burns and scabs from the toxic chemicals, and yet they continue to go back every few weeks for their regular dose of this creamy crack. The FDA banned the manufacture of household liquid drain cleaners that have a higher than 10 percent solution of Sodium Hydroxide because it corrodes drain pipes. Because it is so strong, it may cause dermatitis of the scalp. If left on the hair more than 10 minutes, it will dissolve the hair, causing it to tear easily and become fragile and limp. Would anyone put this cream on their face, or on their arm, and leave it there for 10 or 15 minutes? Then why put it on your head?

Inhalation
And then there are the fumes. A study done by the Cancer Surveillance program at the University California School of Medicine found the number of cases of blood cancer to be excessive for females in the occupations “cosmetologist, hairdressers, and manicurist.” Dyes, shampoos, conditioners, relaxers, permanent wave solutions, nail antiseptics, fungi, and bacteria are the suspect causes of this. Although the study does not specifically look for race in the findings, it is known that blacks in these beauty occupations typically have higher rates of blood cancer. Also, frequent inhalation of this chemical can lead to lung damage.

Love Yourself
In order to stop these damaging practices, we must first learn to love ourselves as we are. Why should we continue the practice of chemically damaging our hair so that we can wear it in styles created for other hair textures when African-American hair can be styled beautifully just as it is? It’s not hard to work with, and there are lots of varieties of styles to choose from.. From locks to twists to coils to afros... from dressy up-dos to the no-care-hair of free-styling. Our hair is not unmanageable, as many people think. My aunt once told me that our hair is easy to manage as long as we stop trying to force it to do things it wasn’t designed to do.

Hair doesn’t have to be straight to be beautiful. It simply has to be well-groomed. There are books by natural hair care specialists that take you through every step of transitioning from chemically-straightened hair to healthy natural stylish hair. There are also support groups all over the country to help people cross over and maintain their natural hair. If you’re interested in any of these, see http://www.nappyhairaffair.com/hair.htm. If you're interested in the Detroit group, click here.

Our skin is brown because it’s supposed to be. Our hair is kinky because it’s supposed to be. It’s not something that needs to be fixed or hidden. It’s not something to be ashamed of. It’s just hair. It’s not bad hair or good hair. Just hair. The idea that it must be fixed (or straightened) is left-over baggage from the days of slavery... an idea that we’ve held for so long that we no longer have a clue how to manage and maintain our hair in its natural state. We shun our own natural hair texture because we have been told for generations that nappy hair is bad. We’ve been made to feel that the only way to attain ‘good’ hair is to straighten it. We’ve turned perfectly neutral descriptive words into negatives. Straight isn’t a negative word. Wavy isn’t a negative word. When we can hear the words kinky and nappy as being purely descriptive and carrying no negative connotation, and when we can all “stop living the lye”, we will have made it to true acceptance of ourselves.

Link to original article Sandy's Journey

Last Updated on Monday, 20 September 2010 01:14

Super Short Styling

STYLES: The TWA: Short, Sharp, Chic

The twa, (teeny, weeny, afro) is probably the most drastic change we encounter when we do the big chop and get rid of the relaxed ends in order to be 100% napptural. Many of us have gone from longish, straight tresses to a short, coily fro and there couldn't be a more drastic change than that. When we see ourselves in a TWA for the first time, it can be pleasing, shocking and exhilirating --all at the same time.
Eventhough you now have short hair, don't think that hairstyling options are limited. Short hair can take on many forms and different looks, depending on *just* how short your hair is. Let's explore some examples you can try yourself.

Braid photo from Nedjetti's House of Peace

Bantu Knots You will Need: Jojoba or Coconut Oil Gel Rat Tail Comb Water mister		You will need to have at least 2 inches of hair Wash and condition hair Comb through with wide tooth comb Moisturize hair and scalp with jojoba oil Section hair with tail end of rat tail comb Place a little natural gel on section Twirl section around index finger until it begins to coil back on itself Wrap coiling hair around itself and tuck the ends into the base
Comb Twists You will Need: Rat Tail Comb Jojoba or Coconut Oil Gel Water mister (Jadad)		Wash and condition hair Comb through with wide tooth comb Moisturize hair and scalp with jojoba oil Section hair Place a little natural gel on section Hold tail comb by the tail and comb through hair once Slide base of hair through top end of comb, with comb against scalp Begin to twirl the comb by the tail, keeping hair in teeth of comb Hold hair firmly at scalp between thumb and index finger Draw entire length of hair through comb whilst twirling to the end Section will spring into shiny tube
Curly 'Fro You will Need: Jojoba or Coconut Oil Gel Setting Lotion Water mister (Rizos)		Wash and condition hair Comb through with wide tooth comb Moisturize hair and scalp with jojoba oil Section hair, no need to be precise with parting Place a little natural gel and/or setting lotion on section Twirl hair around your index finger until it makes a tube Finish by rolling the ends between index finger and thumb Allow hair to dry either naturally or under a dryer Carefully separate coils and pat hair into shape
Straw Set You will Need: Drinking Straws/ perm rods Jojoba or Coconut Oil Setting lotion End papers Rat Tail Comb Wide toothed comb Water mister (Panthera)		Shampoo, condition and comb hair Moisturize hair and scalp with jojoba oil Saturate hair with setting lotion Part hair into 1/4 to 1/2 inch sections You may wish to add gel or another product to section Place end papers on the end of your hair. Roll your hair onto the straws and secure with a hair pin Repeat steps above over entire head You may need to mist with water occasionally Dry your hair under a hard hat or bonnet hair dryer Remove the straws and separate curls with your fingers Spray with oil sheen
Single Twists You will Need: Jojoba or Coconut Oil Gel Water mister Wide toothed comb (Jetcitygirl)		Wash and condition hair Grab a section of hair and comb through Add gel to section Twist section around your finger Hair will make a coil and gel will keep it in place The coilier your hair, the longer they will stay It doesn't get much easier than this
Short Braids You will Need: Jojoba Oil Gel Water mister Rat Tail Comb Wide Tooth Comb		Wash and condition hair Comb through with wide tooth comb Moisturize hair and scalp with jojoba oil Section hair with rat tail comb Place a little natural gel on section Braid section, keeping even tension To Finish, roll ends between index and thumb For curly/corkscrew braids, set braids on perm rods
Tiny Two Strands You will Need: Jojoba or Coconut Oil Gel Water mister Wide toothed comb (ShawntaRae)		Same method as braids but twist instead of braid Separated section into two sections Twist each section around each other, forming a rope Hair should stay in twists on its own If hair has enough length, tuck twist ends under Place scarf on head until hair is dry so twists lay flat Carefully untwist for coily twa

Last Updated on Friday, 21 August 2009 05:59

10 Chemicals to Avoid

10 THINGS TO AVOID PUTTING ON YOUR HAIR!

Most of the commercially available hair care products today use harmful, potentially carcinogenic ingredients. In the interest of good napptural health, I list below, what are in my opinion, the 10 worst commonly found product ingredients thngs you can put on your hair (and body). Check the list of ingredients on your hair products. The more of a particular ingredient you have in a product, the closer it is to the top of the list of ingredients on the bottle:

1. ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: This is a solvent and denaturant (poisonous substance that changes another substances natural qualities). Isopropyl alcohol is found in hair color rinses, body rubs, hand lotions, after-shave lotions, fragrances and many other cosmetics. This petroleum-derived substance is also used in antifreeze and as a solvent in shellac. Napptural hair reacts very badly to isoalcohol and this ingredient should be avoided at ALL costs. It will dry your hair out and break it off. According to A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, inhalation or ingestion of the vapor may cause headaches, flushing, dizziness, mental depression, nausea, vomiting, narcosis and even coma in extreme cases.

2. MINERAL OIL & PETROLATUM: The best baby oil is made from almonds. But the oil which being sold as baby oil is 100% mineral oil. Mineral oil is a derivative of crude oil (petroleum) that is used industrially as a cutting fluid and lubricating oil. This commonly used petroleum ingredient coats the skin and hair just like plastic wrap. The skin's natural barrier is disrupted as this plastic coating inhibits its ability to breathe and absorb the Natural Moisture Factor (moisture and nutrition). The skin's ability to release toxins and wastes is impossible through this "plastic wrap," which can promote acne and other disorders. It further hinders normal skin respiration/transpiration by keeping oxygen out. This process slows down skin function and normal cell development causing the skin to prematurely age. Holding in large a mounts of moisture in the skin can "flood" the biology and may result in immature, unhealthy, sensitive skin that dries out easily. Petrolatum - A petroleum-based grease that is used industrially as a grease component. Petrolatum exhibits many of the same potentially harmful properties as mineral oil.
Honestly, this stuff belongs in your engine, not on your hair. Regardless of "Well, my Grandma used vaseline on her hair and it grew ", the bottom line is this stuff is bad. It was bad for Grandma and it is bad for you. Period.

3. PEG: This is an abbreviation for polyethylene glycol that is used in making cleansers to dissolve oil and grease as well as thicken products. Because of their effectiveness, PEG's are often used in caustic spray on oven cleaners and yet are found in many personal care products. PEG's contribute to stripping the Natural Moisture Factor, leaving the immune system vulnerable. They are also potentially carcinogenic.

4. PROPYLENE GLYCOL (PG): As a "surfactant" or wetting agent and solvent, this ingredient is actually the active component in antifreeze. There is no difference between the PG used in industry and the PG used in personal care products. It is used in industry to break down protein and cellular structure (what the skin is made of) yet is found in most forms of make-up, hair products, lotions, after-shave, deodorants, mouthwashes and toothpaste. It is also used in food processing. Because of its ability to quickly penetrate the skin, the EPA requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles when working with this toxic substance. The Material Safety Data Sheets warn against skin contact, as PG has systemic consequences such as brain, liver and kidney abnormalities. Consumers are not protected nor is there a warning label on products such as stick deodorants, where the concentration is greater than that in most industrial applications.

5. SODIUM LAURYL SUFATE (SLS) & SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES): SLS is used in testing labs as the standard ingredient to irritate skin. Used as detergents and surfactants, these closely related compounds are found in car wash soaps, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. Yet both SLS and SLES are used more widely as one of the major ingredients in cosmetics, toothpaste, hair conditioner and about 90% of all shampoos and products that foam. They are used in personal-care products because they are cheap. A small amount generates a large amount of foam, and when salt is added it thicken to give the illusion of being thick and concentrated. (SOME OF THE NITROSATING AGENTS ARE: SLS, SLES, DEA, TEA, MEA). Shampooing the hair with a product contaminated with these substances can lead to its absorption into the body at levels much higher than eating nitrite-contaminated foods.
Mark Fearer in an article, Dangerous Beauty, says, "...in tests, animals that were exposed to SLS experienced eye damage, along with depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation and corrosion and death." According to the American College of Toxicology states both SLS and SLES can cause malformation in children's eyes. Other research has indicated SLS may be damaging to the immune system, especially within the skin. Skin layers may separate and inflame due to its protein denaturing properties. It is possibly the most dangerous of ad ingredients in personal care products. Research has shown that SLS when combined with other chemicals can be transformed into nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens, which causes the body to absorb nitrates at higher levels than eating nitrate contaminated food." According to the American College of Toxicity report, "SLS stays in the body for up to five days..." Other studies have indicated that SLS easily penetrates through the skin and enters and maintains residual levels in the heart, the liver, the lungs and the brain. This poses serious questions regarding its potential health threat through its use in shampoos, cleansers and toothpaste,"
Studies show its danger potential to be great when used in personal-care products. Toxicity - A serious problem with these chemicals is that they may be contaminated with NDELA (N-nitrosodiethanolamine), one of the nitrosamines and a potent carcinogen, according to a 1978 FDA report.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - SLES is the alcohol form (ethoxylated) of SLS. It is slightly less irritating than SLS, but may be more drying. Both SLS and SLES can enter the blood stream. They may cause potentially carcinogenic formations of nitrates and dioxins to form in shampoos and cleansers by reacting with other product ingredients. Large amounts of nitrates may enter the blood system from just one shampooing. Contains ether.

6. CHLORINE: According to Doris J. Rapp, M.D., author of Is This your Child's World? exposure to chlorine in tap water, Showers, pool, laundry products, cleaning agents, food processing, sewage systems and many others, can effect health by contributing to asthma, hay fever, anemia, bronchitis, circulatory collapse, confusion, delirium diabetes, dizziness, irritation of the eye, mouth, nose throat, lung, skin and stomach, heart disease, high blood pressure and nausea. It is also a possible cause of cancer. Even though you will not see Chlorine on personal care product labels, it is important for you to be aware of the need to protect your skin when bathing and washing your hair.

7. DEA (diethanolamine) MEA (momoethnanolamine) TEA (triethanolamine): DEA and MEA are usual listed on the ingredients label in conjunction with the compound being neutralized. Thus look for names like Cocamide DEA or MES, Lauramide DEA, etc. These are hormone disrupting chemicals and are known to form cancer causing nitrates and nitrosamines. . These are commonly found in most personal care products that foam, including bubble baths, body washes, shampoos, soaps and facial cleansers. On the show, CBS This Morning, Roberta Baskin revealed that a recent government report shows DEA and MEA are readily absorbed in the skin. Dr. Samuel Epstein, Professor of Environmental Health at the University of Illinois said "repeated skin applications of DEA-based detergents resulted in a major increase in the incidence of two cancers - liver and kidney cancers." John Bailey, who oversees the cosmetic division for the FDA said the new study is especial important since "the risk equation changes significantly for children."

8. FD & C Color PIGMENTS: Many color pigments cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Absorption of certain colors can cause depletion of oxygen in the body and even death according to A Consumer's dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Debra Lynn Dadd says in Home Safe Home: "Colors that can be used in foods, drug, and cosmetics are made from coal tar. There is a great deal of controversy about their use, because animal studies have shown almost all of them to be carcinogenic."

9. FRAGRANCE: Fragrance is present in most deodorants shampoos, sunscreens, skin care, body care and baby products. Many of the compounds in fragrance are carcinogenic or otherwise toxic. "Fragrance on a label can indicate the presence of up to 4,000 separate ingredients. Most or all of them are synthetic. Symptoms reported to the FDA have included headaches, dizziness, rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and allergic skin irritation. Clinical observation by medical doctors have shown that exposure to fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity, irritability, inability to cope, and other behavioral changes," (Home Safe Home).
For better health try purchasing unscented products and for fragrance, adding a natural essential oil.

10. IMIDAZOLIDINYL UREA and DMDM HYDANTOIN: These are just two of the many preservatives that release formaldehyde (formaldehyde-donors). According to the Mayo clinic, formaldehyde can irritate the respiratory system, cause skin reactions and trigger heart palpitations. Exposure to formaldehyde may cause joint pain, allergies, depression, headaches, chest pains, ear infections, Chronic fatigue, dizziness and loss of sleep. It can also aggravate coughs and colds and trigger asthma. Serious side effects include weakening of the immune system and cancer. Nearly all brands of skin, body and hair care, antiperspirants and nail polish found in stores contain formaldehyde-releasing ingredients.

If the above information is not enough to make you read labels on things before using them on yourself of your babies, nothing will.

Last Updated on Friday, 21 August 2009 05:25

Nappy Hair is Professional, Are YOU?

How many times have YOU had this conversation? I don't really know what natural style will work in the "corporate environment." "Natural hair is not professional." I cant go natural, I work in a conservative environment." Ive heard it more than I'd like to. Whenever I hear it, I know that there's more harvests to reap and ministry to do. Do I grow tired of the comment? Yes. Do I find the comment offensive to me, a woman from corporate and academia for almost two decades? Yes. Do the people that ask the question of me stop to think that they are offending the one they ask the question to? NO! So, I stop and pause and ask us to contemplate the underlying issue that plagues black women: How is our self esteem?It took hundreds of years for black women to move from the fields to the kitchen. Then, decades to get out the kitchen and to blue collar service jobs, now corporate jobs sharing a monikar with our white counterparts. But have black women really arrived post the black love movement of the 1970's? There's damage that reigns in the minds of black women, including myself, who have been taught by our mothers to perm our hair to get a 'good job.' We've been told to straighten our hair to make other people feel more comfortable with us. Thus, alluding to the fact that our naps are not appropriate for a work environment. Ontop of performing twice as well as our counterparts, working long hours and dealing with racism in the workplace, women in the black middle class or aspiring towards it, have been carefully trained to help other races feel comfortable, beginning with our hair. Because nappy hair texture has been frowned upon by people within the black culture, almost as a right of passage, little girls have been marched to the beauty salon, and conditioned to believe that she is not good enough, and require 'fixing.' As the little girl grows up into a women that brings home the bacon and fries it up in a pan, she have been conditioned to report to the salon chair almost every month, continuing a lifelong cycle of self denial and depreciation.I ask, what is the root of the energy a black woman puts into denying her birth crown of glory? Is it the images of the nappy headed slave or mamie in the kitchen that makes her think that straightening her hair 'won't' make us a slave no mo', no mo' no mo?"Well I propose that looking like a slave and being a slave are two very different things. I propose that being a professional and thinking like a professional are two different things as well. One salient thing that stands out about black women more than hair, more than clothes is the color of her skin. No matter what, the melanin that coats a black woman's radiant skin is the first thing the world sees, the melanin that protects her skin from UV radiation and environmental demise. The bouquet of coils that protect her body, cool her skin and pick up energy from all living things is secondary.I propose that since the color of the skin cannot change, that the hair on the head is second to the content of her character. I propose that a women that believes that she was created fearfully and wonderfully walks in the glory that was created just for her and noticed and respected above the women with shiny, barbie-doll textured hair on her head that is not hers. I propose that there is something genuinely beautiful about a woman that enters a room, graces the audience with her effectuous smile that glows from a secret place that affirms her crown knowing her crown was uniquely and specifically made to adorn only her head. I propose that this assurance of confidence, poise and professionalism superceedes an offering from a mannequin head in a two dollar korean beauty supply store.When it comes to wearing natural hair in a corporate environment, it is essential to transform the mental. Mama says dont say nothing if you can't say nothing nice. If Im natural, and Im a professional and I work in corporate-dont say to me natural hair is not professional. Thats a diss in my book. So respect ME, let ME evolve. You stay right where you are while I have a journey of self love to get back to, requiring enough of my energy. However, if you want to learn how to transform the mental and transcend the physical, like Harriet Tubman, I reach my hand out to you as we cross the bridge to a new land, but I have no time to take anymore prisnors.