Ending the Relaxer Cycle

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Transitioning Basics

Transitioning doesn't have to be difficult, but it will require patience persistence and the learning of new skills. For help and support from other transitioners and nappturals, visit the Transitioners section of the Nappturality forum.

Becoming relaxer-free

There is no magic chemical or process which will reverse a relaxer. I've heard it all. Vinegar, laundry detergent, dishwashing detergent, lemon, tea tree, salt water, orange rind...

Spinning around 3 times and clicking your heels will not return you to your nappy home.

Why? Because the chemicals in relaxers semi-dissolve your hair. Once you have chemically relaxed your hair, the bonds which hold the hair together in a coil formation are broken permanently, thereby damaging the hair in order to make it straight. The only way to be relaxer-free is to grow out or cut off the relaxed hair.

What is "Transitioning"

When you decide you are no longer going to relax or chemically alter your new growth, you are in a phase known as "transitioning." You are transitioning from relaxed hair to napptural hair. For many of us, transitioning or going napptural was not an easy decision to make, but for some, the decision was made for them - a relaxer took their hair OUT.

In my view, the transition phase is the most difficult you will encounter in your napptural journey, because it's the beginning. During this time you may experience a myriad of emotions, from fear to frustration, excitement to elation. You will experience your first sensation of complete hair freedom - when you pass that 4 - 6 week touch up milestone.

You may struggle with long-held beliefs about your hair. You realize that as your napptural hair grows, you are still trying to treat it as if it is processed, because that is all you know. You will learn that not only is your hair changing, but your way of thinking must change as well or you are bound to relax or texturize again. Because you are not only transitioning your hair, you are transitioning your brain.

You will also be seeking as much information as possible to learn to deal with the two opposite textures on your head, and different methods to make the transition easier to deal with. Transitioning is the best time for you to learn about your natural hair and understand what it can and can't do. Look for resources such as books , magazines and on the Web where you are sure to find the support you need.

Remember, thousands of women have come before you, and there is much information out there about transitioning which will help you get through this first, exciting phase of your napptural journey.

Schools of Thought

There are 2 schools of thought on transitioning.

School 1. Cut the relaxed hair off right away

No doubt, the quickest and easiest way to go from relaxed to napptural hair is to simply cut the relaxed hair off. This is referred to as THE BIG CHOP. Depending on how much napptural hair you have, this could mean you shave your head or cut your hair down to a twa (teeny weeny afro). This is the transition method of choice for many because it gives the person the opportunity to learn about their hair as it grows. Plus it looks great!

School 2. Gradually grow your hair out

This option means you keep your relaxed hair while you grow the napptural hair out. This method requires much more work, (depending on how long you keep the relaxed hair) unless you transition with a covering style such as weaving, wigs or braids.

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Remember your hairdresser telling you that if you don't continue relaxing your hair would break off? Well here is the reason.

When you relax your hair, you change it's natural attributes to the opposite of what they are. You have changed the most coily of hair to the straightest of hair (depending, of course on how straight your relaxed hair is). The line where these two textures meet is called the line of demarcation . This is the weakest part of a hair strand. The two textures fight against each other at this point, causing a weak point where they meet. This is where the hair breaks off.

However, it is possible to minimize breakage with the use of the correct techniques and products. There are women on Nappturality.com who testify to this by transitioning successfully for a year. The success of long-term (more than 3 months) transitioning is dependent on how resilient your particular hair strands are. Generally, thick hair strands will not break as easily as fine hair strands.

To work out the best method to transition, please take the Transition Quiz article in this category.

Dee

I want to stop relaxing. What do I do?

There are many factors to take into account when you are trying to decide if you should enroll in School 1 BIG CHOP or School 2 TRANSITION. Here is a little test you can take to see which way may be the best for you. Add up the numbers according to your answers and click on your final score below. Note that your results don't mean you HAVE to transition a certain way, it's a guide to what you may be able to do.

Is your relaxed hair damaged? (split ends, breakage, tangly, limp, rough, extra dry?)
Yes (20)
No (10)

If your relaxed hair is badly damaged, you will have to either cut it off or cover it up.
How much time are you willing to devote to learn about styling the 2 textures?
As much as necessary (5)
A fair amount (10)
A little (15)
None (20)
How skilled are you at styling your hair ?
Very Skilled (5)
Skilled (10)
OK (15)
Not Skilled (20)
For how long do you want to keep your relaxed hair?
For as long as possible (5)
For a little while (10)
Not long (15)
I don't (61)

Click on Your Score------> <45 points, 46 - 60 points, > 60 points

Once you determine what the best method may be for you to transition, check out the Transition Tips and Styles articles.

See Scores Below!

Your score:Over 60 points.

Grab a friend, get the scissors and... "Big Chop"

Your score indicates the best path for you to follow is to cut the relaxed hair off and start your napptural journey wearing a twa (teeny weeny afro). Depending on how much new growth you have, this could mean you have as little as 1/4 inch of hair or 2 inches of hair.

There are a few ways you can do this. You can go to a professional stylist, barber, have a trusted friend help you, or you can do it yourself. Nappturality recommends you have a professional stylist do this to ensure your hair is as even as possible, but if you decide to try it yourself, there are a few rules to follow.

The scissors you use must be specifically and exclusively used for cutting hair. Don't use scissors that have been used to cut anything else. Using the wrong scissors may mean you are cutting split ends into your hair. Make sure you get off to a good start by using the correct scissors.

You must ascertain the line of demarcation. This is the line where the relaxed hair and new growth meet. To do this you must wet your hair. The two textures should be clearly visible on freshly washed hair.

Once you can see this line, you can proceed to snip the hair off, cutting slightly into the new growth.

Once you have cut your hair, treat yourself to a hot oil or deep conditioning treatment.

Take a look in the mirror and enjoy what you see. It's the real you!

Your score:Between 45 and 60 points...

You're in for the "Short Transition"

Your score indicates the best path for you to follow is to transition for a short period of time. This means that you will be happiest if you can hold on to your relaxed hair for a short amount of time while working with the two textures. You probably are adept at styling your hair and are willing to learn a few more skills in order to wear longer hairstyles while transitioning.

Your transitioning may take anywhere from 2 to 6 months.

It may be an option for you to transition with braids or a weave. If you aren't a skilled stylist with your hair or if you are getting frustrated with the two textures, consider having extensions put in for a little while, giving your hair a little length before cutting off the relaxed ends. Be sure to read the section "Extension Route" for help with extensions.

Keep in mind that if your relaxed hair is severely damaged, it is recommended that you cut it off. You will not be able to manage two textures if the relaxed hair is damaged because breakage is inevitable. If this is the case, you may want to enquire about a loose weave because individual braids may put too much tension and strain on your hair, causing more damage.

You may be interested in learning how to straw set and roller set your hair. Also, flat twists and two-strand twists (extensions or natural) are options which can help the two textures of hair look similar. Check out the section on Transition Styles to learn more about styling your hair.

Your score: Less than 45 points.

Hold on to your hair... execute the "Long Transition"

Your score indicates that you may be able to transition for an extended period of time. Your transitioning may take up to 12 months. Any longer than that may prove counterproductive for your napptural hair.

To transition for a long period successfully, your relaxed hair should not be over processed and/or extensively damaged. If it is, you should either cut the relaxed hair off and wear your hair at it's napptural length, or try wigs or extensions until your hair reaches a length you are comfortable with.

If you plan to work with the two textures on a Long Transition, you should be willing to learn new skills in styling and to take the time to learn. You will need patience and products to help you with the styling. If you have long relaxed hair, as your napptural hair grows you will be confronted with styling issues you will need to be prepared for.

Three important tips for long transitioning include:

Always deep condition your hair whenever you wash it.
Do not use heat repeatedly on the new napptural growth in order to straighten it to match the relaxed hair.
If your hair shows signs of breakage at the line of demarcation, consider cutting the relaxed hair off early.

Go to the Transitioning Tips and Styles sections for some help with your transition.

Good luck!

Transition Style Ideas

Transition Styling Ideas

Nappturality Member Synergy successfully transitioned for 12 months. Here she offers her best tips and product recommendations.

Shampoo every 5 days. I use one of the following: Keracare, Breakthru, Elasta QP Creme Shampoo (I used to use Elucence but I ran out and this is just as good and much cheaper). Warning: If your hair doesn't like Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, stay away from Keracare. My hair doesn't seem to mind it at all if I have used Breakthru or Keracare,

I follow up with a 20 minute (under a hooded dryer) reconstructive treatment from New Era. I rinse, apply a small amount of Elasta QP Fortify conditioner(w/Breathru) or Humecto (with Keracare) for 10 minutes, rinse again. If I use Elasta Creme shampoo, I follow up with Elasta DPR -11 (Deep Penetrating Remoisturizer)- this is very good stuff- and I sit under the dry for at least 20 minutes, rinse.

Combing

I only comb when I have shampoo in my hair in the shower. Most people prefer conditioner combing, I prefer shampoo. I have a wide, and I do mean wide, tooth comb that I keep in the shower.

Detangling

I don't get many tangles. I will attribute this to detangling with shampoo. If there is a tangled part, I start to detangle from the ends of the hair and work my way to the root. After I have rinsed the heavy conditioners out, I use a leave-in conditioner- Elasta QP H-two and I begin to style.

Products

Most products can be found at your local beauty supply store.

Transition Styles

Here are some great styles to wear during your transition

THE STRAW SET

You will need:
A pack of plastic drinking straws or perm rods
End papers
Bobby pins

Wash and condition hair
Apply gel or setting lotion and make sure it's alcohol free (try Thermasilk Gel)
Cut straw to a little past length of hair
Fold end paper over hair ends
Wrap hair around straw length wise into spiral formation; start at the ends and roll towards the scalp
Secure by placing bobby pin inside the base of the straw lengthwise at scalp
Dry hair under hooded dryer until completely dry
Release by carefully unwinding the straw from the hair
Apply light oil and separate curls if more volume is desired.

THE ROLLER SET

Rollersetting transitioning hair is basically the same as rollersetting it when it's relaxed. The main thing to consider is that it will take more tension when rolling the hair to straighten the new growth to a texture that resembles the relaxed hair.

The styling products you will need are a setting lotion, end papers and rollers. Choose the hard plastic rollers. Never use sponge rollers in your hair. The sponge absorbs the moisture in your hair, leaving it prone to extra dryness.

FLAT TWISTS

Flat twists are essentially cornrows, but using 2 strands of hair instead of 3.

Part your hair using a rat tail comb or something to make the parts sharp.
Separate section into 2 strands at the hairline.
Wind one strand over the other like a rope, picking up hair as you move down the section.
Secure with a bobbypin placed parallel and underneath the twist.

You can either twist right to the back of your head or leave hair out at the ends and rollerset or straw set.

This is an excellent style to wear as your new growth passes the 1 inch mark because it protects the new hair and doesn't cause undue stress on the line of demarcation (where the relaxed and natural hair meet). Once you get the hang of it it doesn't take long at all.

Transitioning With Braids

Transitioning and Extensions

Hair extensions are always an option for you to consider if you aren't sure about your transition yet. However, we strongly encourage you to learn to work with your real hair as soon and as often as possible and not to cover it up with extension hair all the time. If you transition solely with extensions, you will not be familiarizing yourself with your real hair and may be in for trouble when you decide it's time be wear your napptural hair - you won't know what to do with it! The ensuing frustration could lead you back to relaxing.

Natural hair weaves are a gentler choice because they give you the opportunity to see yourself with napptural, kinky hair. Also some methods for weaving (cornrowing) is more gentle on your hair than other forms of extensions such as extension individual braids.

Too-tight extension individual braids can do something scary - they can send you bald . If the extensions are put in too tight and/or left in for too long your hair will come out at the roots and your follicles will not recover quickly, if at all. You may be left with thin, broken off natural hair for years. Not to mention if you leave them in for months, they will begin to lock.

If you decide to wear braid extensions periodically, follow these rules for the health of your hair:

If the braids hurt, they are too tight! Remove them immediately or tell braider to stop.

Remove and re-do braids at least once every 6 weeks.

Always deep condition your hair when braids are removed because the chemicals used in extension hair can dry out your natural hair.

Leave hair loose for at least 2 days before braiding again.

Keep your scalp clean.

Don't wear too-long/heavy extension hair, this creates tension at the root.

Don't wear styles that pull on the braids.

If your hairline is breaking, (braids falling out, etc) REMOVE the braids!!

Itchy scalp may mean mean dry scalp. Use a scalp soother like jojoba on your scalp (not hair).

Itchy scalp may also mean dirty scalp. Make sure you cleanse your scalp thoroughly. Use a facial astringent may assist with removing buildup and soothing your scalp.

Itchy scalp may also mean tight braids. If you see any little bumps on your scalp, remove the braids immediately

Some people react to synthetic hair. If your head itches uncontrollably, remove the braids.

Rinse shampoo or cleanser thoroughly from your scalp - buildup can also cause itchiness.

Smelly braids may mean you haven't been rinsing and/or drying thoroughly. Product buildup combined with long-term dampness can mean an unhealthy situation of mold and yes, funky smell.

If you find mold in your extensions, take them out and wash your hair thoroughly. Mold will damage your natural hair. Some people have recipes they claim eliminates mold from braids/dreds. Search the forums to find out.

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