Stickmon-1

A Windjammer Adventure

Aboard the Sailing Vessel, Polynesia

By Bob Stickney

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Saturday 13 March 1999
Got my 4:00 am wakeup call to leave the nearly four feet of snow that was deposited in Rochester New York, one week ago, for a flight to sunny Sint Maarten in the West Indies at 6:00 a.m. I barely slept a wink the night before because of the growing excitement for what would transpire the following week on the Sailing Vessel Polynesia, a 248’ four masted schooner.

I arrived in St. Maarten around 1:00 p.m. and literally kissed the ground as I disembarked the plane, as I had been whisked away by plane from the frozen tundra of Upstate New York a scant 6 hours ago. I cleared customs, grabbed my bag, changed into shorts since it was a mite bit hot to be wearing long pants, and hailed a cab to get me to the hotel. On my trip down, I opted to stay at the cheapest hotel available, the Seaview Hotel/Casino. It’s a nice place. It’s clean; has a good sized bed to sleep in, a shower and a beachfront. A place to stow my gear for the night. All I need for my night’s stay in St. Maarten. On the way back I stayed on the French side at the L’Hoste, a highly recommended resort by many Windjammer shipmates.

I spent the afternoon strolling around Phillipsburg checking out the shops and wondering if I would spot any shipmates. I wandered down to Capt. Hodge’s Wharfe and saw the Poly sitting majestically in the harbor dwarfed by the bigger Foo-foo ships. The Poly and I go way back, I sailed with her many a times and we’ve become friends!! I was home! I had duck bumps all over!!!

Dinner on Saturday night was at the Greenhouse, a popular spot with Windjammer shipmates. While eating dinner, lo and behold I spot several shipmates sitting across from me!!! How could I tell??? Probably because someone was wearing a pair of crew shorts and the usual Windjammer attire. They were “Old Salts” who had sailed the week before. I introduce myself as “Stick”, exchange pleasantries, like where ya from??? Etc, etc. We talk ‘jammin for awhile, then it’s time to mosey back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.

Sunday 14 March 1999
I awoke early this morning as I wanted to get a full day in. Breakfast was at the Holland House overlooking the harbour. There’s the Poly out there sitting like a queen. I strolled down to the wharf to watch as the Foo-fooers come in on their water buses packed liked sardines in a can.

They look like a herd of cattle as they disembark and do their deal for the day. I spend the rest of the morning being a beach bum before I check out. Sunday afternoon was spent dickering with the locals who were selling their wares. It can be a blast if you know how to dicker with them. I’m sure they enjoy it as much as I do! I walk away with a fair amount of loot.

It’s now mid afternoon and many of my shipmates for the week are arriving. I talk to a few, we drink a few beers and soon it’s time to board the Poly. Around a quarter to five there’s a bunch of us at the dock waiting to take the launches aboard. Laurie, the purser, gives a little deal about what to expect when we come aboard. When she is finished she asked if there was any questions. Some guy in the back row, who shall remain nameless (moi?); asks… “Ain’t this a Foo-foo ship”? She replies by wanting the man’s name. I think he said “Mud”!!

We boarded the Poly and were handed our rum swizzles; it was nice to be home! After checking in with Laurie, the purser, it was time to get sequestered in my cabin. My cabin mate was a guy named Hans Broner from downstate New York. He was an “Old Salt”, sailing the week before. Since he occupied the bottom bunk, which I do prefer, the top bunk would be mine. With that in mind I regulated myself to sleeping on deck every night which I live for anyway. There’s something about sleeping ‘neath the stars while either at port or at sea. You do get a good night’s sleep as long as you’re dressed for it. A wind suit or sweat suit, your pillow and blanket, grab a mat, and you’re set for the night.

Snacks and swizzles at 5pm, a buffet dinner with passengers mixing and mingling around 7ish, then a steel band later on. The Poly was soon rockin’ with new passengers having one great time.

Monday 15 March 1999
Bloody Mary’s and sticky buns for the early risers. Cabin Steward comes by ringing a bell, yelling “BREAKFAST…. GET UP…. RISE AND SHINE”!!! It’s a beautiful morn ‘board the Poly today. The sun is out. It’s getting hot out here. But hey… You’re in the Caribbean… That’s the WAY it’s ‘sposed to be! I’ll probably do nothing more than lay around and be a “deck rat” all day; which is fine by me!

9am ish is Captain’s story time. Captain Neil introduces himself and the rest of the crew. There’s 1st mate Lambert, 2nd mate Simon, the Activities mate Kristine, the purser Laurie. The bartenders are Spice and Marti, Chief Engineer Alex. Then there’s the legend of the windjammer fleet, Chief Steward POPEYE!! The rest of the crew your crew, cabin stewards, Head Chef Alvin Britton etc, etc.

Capt. Neil goes on and tells us what the deal for the day is, tells us his joke for the day, and is gone to get ready to sail later in the day. Kristine lets us know what tours are available. Some us do the America’s Cup race which is a lot of fun.

Last launch from ashore is 12:30. We have lunch aboard and get ready to set sail for parts unknown. Sails go up and we set sail to “Amazing Grace”. Soon we are heading out to sea for an adventure! We pass a Carnival Foo-foo. Capt. Neil fires a cannon at it. He swears he’s never sunk one, but I told him later he scored a few direct hits! We’re whooping and a hollerin’ as we do a group moon at the Foo-foo!

Popeye does the safety drill which is MUST for all passengers. Later, Laurie opens up her Sea Chest. Gotta check out what wares are for sale this week!

Around 5pm-ish we are somewhere near St. Bart’s. Capt. puts out the diving board and many take a dip in the nice cool waters of the Caribbean Sea. It’s already swizzle time! 2 seatings for dinner tonight, but while in line for 2nd seating I opt to jump ship and go ashore for the evening. We sit on the patio of Le Select, where Jim Buffet wrote “Cheeseburger in Paradise”, telling jokes and drinking Buds at $2 each. There’s Doug and Dave and their wives Lisa and Sheila. They hail from Michigan. Doug and Dave were telling “hairlip and the Olle and Lena (Norwegian) jokes. I swear they had me laughing so hard my face froze and I had tears rolling from my eyes!!! We were joined by Ron from Albany NY and Angela from Boston. Later went across the street to another pub and danced til our feet fell off. Made last launch aboard in time for late night snacks. Found a mat on the deck and had sweet dreams til morn.

Tuesday St. Bart’s
By now I’ve almost forgotten the date and soon I will forget what day it is, only the island we are visiting. Story time today Capt. Neil gives us our daily history lesson and his joke of the day. As usual it’s a good one. Kristine tells where we can go to rent cars, get cabs and where the best beaches are. I go ashore with Dale, his wife Vicky, their friends Danny and Karen; all from Indianapolis. We grab a cab (fare is 3 bucks to the beach, 3 bucks back). We go over to St. Jean beach near the airport. We watch as the planes take off and land as they attempt to scare the sunbathers. It’s a sight to see! Later it’s a “Cheeseburger in Paradise” at Le Select; then hop the launch aboard just in time for the wine and cheese party. Buffet dinner tonight, then its back ashore for a party at Le Select. Capt. Neil hires a band and we dance the night away. Popeye even sings for us.

Last launch is 2300 hrs. Midnight we set sail for the next island.

Wednesday St. Kitts
Ah…. I still know what day it is. Of course, it’s St. Patty’s Day!! Wearin’ ‘o’ The Green! Engine problems today has the Poly dead in the water. We’re being towed to port via tug boat. Capt. Neil tells us a part is being flown in and we should be Ok by morning. After story time everybody goes ashore to either explore the island, snorkel, or scuba dive. A few of us remain aboard and make a lazy day of it. I eventually make it ashore to check out Turtle Beach on the Atlantic side. Just nice to lay there and hear the ocean come in and go out.

Back aboard for swizzle time and the International Windjammer Crab Races. It’s a fun time as all the passengers are betting on which crab will win. The stakes are high and the pot is BIG!!! Entertainment tonight is a steel band called the Coronets.

4th Day at Sea
We’re still in St. Kitts but are being towed to sea by the tugboat. But are in for a real old fashioned sail to Nevis. No motor sailing, just “all hands on deck and prepare to raise the sails”! It was a sight to see to say the least! A good 7 knot clip across the sea and all passengers enjoying the sail of their lives!! Capt. Neil was in his glory tacking back and forth. Figuring out what to do next. Like a chess match at sea!! The man had a smile on his face and enjoying every minute of it! It was just like the good old days, before motor sail.

We arrive in Nevis sometime before noon. Captains story a bit late but good as always. Wet landing today as we’ll be at that every popular stop in the Caribbean… Sunshines, the home of the Killer Bees”!!! Gotta be careful about them things, ‘cause they’ll sneak up and sting ya but good if ya ain’t careful, now!!! Everybody was ashore being beach bums and eating lobster having a great time. Back aboard for swizzle time and the “Boat Races”. I Captained the guys team, but we lost to a powerful women’s team. Back ashore for a beach party with Windjammer BBQ ribs, chicken and all the fixins.

Small World Dept.
Over the years after having sailed many a Windjammer I have often wondered what has happened to many of the crew that I sail with. While we were waiting for parts to fix the engine, I fixed my eyes on someone who was Chief engineer on ships I had sailed on in the 1980’s. I asked Alex the Chief Engineer this week and he told me it was Dave Penney. We had sailed together long ago. I went up to him and greeted him. He remembered my face but not my name. We spent what little time that he had talking about the times we had sailed together. He remembered the legendary Wynn Jones, who could have passed for a swashbuckler in the days of pirates, the ever friendly Jeff Walker, and John Lloyd. What really made Dave’s day was that I asked how his niece Gayna was doing, now and that I had of picture of her and myself when I sailed on the Poly in September of 1985. She was a bartender at the time. I intend to send it to him. It was good to see someone from long ago.

Last Day…
The engine has been fixed. The part arrived in the wee hours this morning via courier from the home office in Miami. The crew worked feverishly overnight to get the engine in working order. We are sailing home today with a short stop in Statia for those who would like to snorkel some more or get in one last scuba dive. Not much there to see so I stayed aboard, got some rays and was just lost in my own thoughts about the week. I look yonder to the Starboard side and see a Sea Pup by her lonesome gazing longingly at the sea behind her. I sidle up to her and see that she is sad as tears glisten her eyes. I console her and let her know that it’s Ok to feel this way at the end of an adventure of a lifetime. It happens to even the most seasoned Windjammers. Even me, as I get the feeling about the fourth night at sea.

Last story time with Capt. Neil. As usual we got our daily history lesson of the island and his daily joke. Time to get the mind in gear to go home.

Tonight we take a group crew picture and a group passenger picture. Time to get email addresses of shipmates. Instead of having 2 seatings for dinner we had a buffet on top deck. That way all the shipmates could be together one last time. Laurie held a raffle of items in Sea Chest. I win 3 times!!!

Sails raised one more time about 10-sh and we sailed for St. Maarten. I slept on deck again under the stars and the sea beneath me. It’s a nice feeling… The rolling, rocking of the ship and hearing the sails flapping; putting me into a nice restful sleep.

Saturday 20 March 1999
I awaken early to see the last of the stars and the sun will be coming up soon. Shipmates are getting up to make that long trip home. We give hugs, pats on the back and say our good byes, and bid everyone safe passage home to meet again sometime. Fortunately I have two extra days here on the French side to slowly wind down.

It has been a great mix of shipmates this week, young and old alike. Sharing something in common, great times and a love for the sea. The youngest was a lad of 13 by the name of Will with his folks from Texas to a spry lady of 95 years young who enjoyed her 2 martinis everyday. It was a lot of fun to listen to her and I enjoyed her company. There was Woody, a fine gentleman who sailed last year and came back again this year with his daughters and sons-in-law. He celebrated his 71st birthday on Nevis. We sang happy birthday to him and I’m sure there wasn’t a dry eye on board. He was quite a character and he stole everyone’s hearts. A group from France was aboard as well. At first they kept much to themselves as there was a slight language barrier. But by mid week we were all ‘Jammin together having one great time!!! And to the rest of my Poly shipmates it has been my pleasure to have met you and sailed with you last week

Monday 22 March 1999
Time to board my plane now for home. I sit back in my seat, close my eyes and think of the week gone by. Most of my shipmates are home now with tales to tell and yarns to spin about their Windjammer adventures; while The Poly is heading out to sea, going south. Sails are raised and Amazing Grace is being played over bagpipes with new shipmates going on their own Windjammer adventure.

Some final comments…
As I stated earlier I would finish up my holiday staying at the L’Hoste Hotel in Orient Bay. It is everything that my fellow Jammers said it would be. Not far from the beach, clean rooms, pool etc. You don’t need to get a cab to eat anywhere at night as there is a nice place within 100 feet of your room with reasonable prices. I’d stay there again.

One of these days I just might get it right about packing. After 10 Windjammers I thought I’d finally had it right. Couple pairs of shorts, few t-shirts sun screen, toiletries is all you need.

Please…Please take care of yourselves in the sun. If you don’t do any pre tanning before you go to the Caribbean, MAKE sure you use PLENTY of sun screen. The sun is very brutal out there any time of the year.

Finally…
Fellow jammers…. I know this is a bit long, but think of it as a nice short story you’d find in Reader’s Digest or any other periodical. I hope you enjoy reading this as much as I’ve enjoyed writing this.

StickMon

rkstick@frontiernet.net

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